REDMOON is a leather fashion brand based on the concept of "Basic Evolution" created by founder Keiichiro Goto in 1993.
He was a pioneer in bringing the purse, which had previously been only a supporting role in fashion, to the world under the name of "leather wallet" and pushing it to the leading role.
Many of the small leather goods of this REDMOON brand product are handmade by craftsmen's hands, and the representative work " HR-01 '' has established an immovable position as the top of the leather wallet from its inception to the present. You.
A leading group of craftsmen who produce leather products
"REDMOON" started by REDMOON brand owner Keiichiro Goto. This brand, which has a great influence on the fashion world as well as the leather craft world, started in 1993.
The REDMOON Brand Studio is recognized by the brand owner and has many skilled leather builders.
REDMOON is one of Japan's leading leather brands.
The leather products are manufactured by skilled craftsmen.
The craftsmen are producing leather goods after being recognized by the brand owner Keiichiro Goto.
In addition, Japan's only builder group that has moved the theory of "Basic Evolution" by creating `` things '' by original manufacturing methods and production systems and `` evolving basics '' by creating things by `` craftsmen '' (shokujin) created "is Material
The oldest, most attractive and difficult material "leather" in the world is cut with a dedicated leather cutter, cut and assembled with a foot-operated vintage sewing machine 40 years ago.
There is a rule as a "professional builder" that requires one craftsman to complete the entire process of work responsibly.
It has a clear line with normal factories and does not perform any assembly work.
One craftsman takes responsibility for everything from cutting leather, sewing, finishing, and even packing.
It is clearly reflected in products.
It is not just a workshop. The craftsman does even the product design.
Factories that make ordinary bags and wallets have designers, and the people who design and the craftsmen who make them are different.
However, the artisans who are familiar with leather design themselves.
This is another attraction of REDMOON brand leather products.
Here, with his unique system and passion for manufacturing, he has been honestly facing leather, using his hands, watching the eyes, and hand-warming handmade from person to person.
The production studio does not have any production manuals for production.
There is no curriculum.
The technique is basically plagiarized from the teacher, and the technique is transmitted from the teacher to the apprentice through oral tradition.
This is based on the experience of brand owner Keiichiro Goto.
Goto was 20 years old when he traveled to the United States to visit Arizona in the Western District, where he met Native Americans who were working on leather.
Goto, who was interested and watched the production scenery all day long, begged if he could teach one of them the technology, but he was easily rejected because it was not a technology that could be easily taught to a foreigner who did not know. I will.
Still, I could not give up and went every day, and baked and plagiarized the technology in my own eyes.
After that, we refined the technology and sublimated it into technology.
This is still a source, and there is no manual or curriculum to learn from it.
This seemingly inefficient "oral inheritance" is an indispensable way to maintain a high level of technology.
The secret of quality.
It is hidden in cutting and sewing.
It must be manual.
However, the "secret" is hidden in the manual work.
That is "leather cutting" and "pedal type sewing machine".
Imagine an old belt.
The cut surface swells and begins to hurt from there.
But this brand of leather products does not.
Because it is not a cutter but a leather slicing tool that is used to cut leather.
The meaning of crushing prevents "peeling".
This tool is known as "cutting", and it is difficult for ordinary people to just cut straight, so it requires skill. It is even more difficult to cut a curve.
However, highly skilled craftsmen do this well and build products.
All production studios use pedal-type sewing machines.
There are even vintage sewing machines 40 years ago if they are old.
This is because the craftsman feels the "strength difference" for each part of the leather with the body.
Ignoring the "strength difference" and forcibly sewing at a high torque will cause the leather to tear.
In order to avoid such excessive sewing, it is necessary to sew with the minimum necessary torque according to the "feature" of the leather.
For vintage tastes, there are apparel makers who use old sewing machines, just for directing.
But at REDMOON, it is different, it is used to value the leather and to keep the quality of the leather to the maximum.
Also, no adhesive is used when sewing leather products.
In other words, they are not completely bonded.
This allows the leather and the leather to move to some extent.
In the case of external stress, complete lamination will avoid that part, but with this brand of leather products, the thread only needs to be cut.
The result is a product that can withstand many years of use by making repairs.
Some products are hand-sewn.
As the name implies, hand sewing refers to the technique of sewing with needles and thread using hands. Leather is a hard material unlike cloth, so needles do not pass through.
Therefore, before sewing, use a special tool to make holes in the leather and then sew. Therefore, it takes time and effort.
Sewing and hand sewing by sewing machine.
It does not mean that one is better.
The product is sewn in the most suitable sewing method according to the characteristics of the product.
Finishing is also a very laborious task.
What we do is cut leather and leather, and sew the sewn surface with special tools and glue.
This is a patient task, and it takes time and effort to polish all aspects.
* Depending on the characteristics of the product, there are some products that do not perform this task.
Normally, you would imagine an older person as a leather craftsman, but the craftsmen here are generally young.
The current age group is about 20-35 years old.
It's not a street brand, but its members are both craftsmen and designers.
This allows the fusion of things that have conflicting factors of function and appearance.
Today, young leather builders with creative sensibilities are working hard every day in the workshop.
Product repair is a task that requires much more advanced skill than product manufacturing.
This is because it is impossible to disassemble the used and deformed / worn product carefully, and to pass the thread through the same needle hole as before.
Repairs are often more time consuming and time consuming than making one product from scratch.
If you make and sell “counterfeit goods” that are overflowing in the streets, you are done. Because there is no technology and the cost is enormous.
But we don't.
REDMOON leather products are also repaired by skilled craftsmen.
PAILOT RIVERは2011年、レッドムーン創始者 後藤惠一郎がREDMOONとは異なるアプローチで表現するブランドとして立ち上げました。
レッドムーンと同じ製作工房「VILLAGE WORKS」にてハンドメイドで生産されるブランド、パイロットリバー。このブランドはレッドムーンをさらに越えるクオリティを誇るブランドである。ブランドのプロデュースはREDMOON 創始者、後藤惠一郎が行い、『レッドムーンを越えるブランド』として存在する。
VILLAGE WORKS」とはレッドムーンブランド製品における製作・生産部門であり独自の製法と生産システムにより「モノ」を造れる「人創り」と、創り出された「職人( しょくじん)」によるモノ造りによって「進化するベーシック」論をムーブメント化した国内唯一の「ビルダー群」である。この世でもっとも古く、魅力的で難しい素材「革」を専用の革切りで裁ち切り、刻み、古くは40 年前の足踏み型ビンテージミシンで組み、縫いあげる。作業の全工程を一人の職人が責任をもって完成させる事を鉄則とし、流れ作業を一切行わないリアルハンドメイドを行っている「プロビルダー」を多
数有する世界でも稀に見る工房である。このように、リアルハンドメイド製品であり、熟練の職人が手間と時間をかけて製品を製作しているが、PAILOT RIVER の製品はさらに手間のかかる工程から生まれる。
一例をとってみると、レッドムーンの製品はコバ磨き（革の断面を職人が手作業で磨く作業）を行っているが、PAILOT RIVER の製品ではその行程を、革の裏面全体に行っているのである。※1 通常のコバ磨きだけでも、相当手間のかかる作業である。それを全面にとなると、途方も無い時間がかかる。そのオーバークオリティとも言える行程から生まれるのがPAILOT RIVER の製品なのである。
It is a mirror representing the lifestyle of the user, it becomes the only one of myself onlySaddle leather is a material tanned using steahide (bull's leather) with vegetable tanning agent.
Since saddle leather requires several months of process to build up, it can not be mass produced and can be said to be a precious leather.
REDMOON is the most popular material, and many people may know that.
The natural color is also famous for its aging color change over time.
Red moon brand Saddle leather is particularly popular among leather products. Originally "leather saddle" type does not exist.
Because the founder Keiichiro Goto named "leather used for horse saddle" as "saddle leather". Leather such as "Saddle leather" is important material as much.
There are various attractions of saddle leather. It is robust at the beginning, but it changes to a supple texture with supple for every use.
Not only that, but also the color changes.
The change also varies depending on how you use the user, but when you use it for a long time it changes to deep candy.
In addition, wallet polished by wearing and friction releases a distinctive luster.
In terms of how to use the user, the wallet that has been used for many years is a mirror that represents the lifestyle of the user, and it is that it becomes the one and only one of yourself. (Left Bottom: 5 Years Used Right Top 3 Months Used)
Red Moon brand products will be completed by incomplete product users at the time of saleThere is not only color.
The shape also changes. When the user always puts the wallet in the pocket, the tension is applied to the wallet when sitting.
Also, the wallet will be molded by the contents etc.
This is because it is an original saddle leather which was developed in collaboration with Tanner.
The cheap leather that is overflowing in the streets will collapse and you will not be able to withstand long-term use like this.
Wallet that wears for many years becomes "original" of only user with color and shape.
Founder Keiichiro Goto says, "Red Moon brand products are incomplete products at the time of sale."
The meaning is that for the first time, the user becomes "finished product" by using it for a long time.
REDMOON saddle leather "tan" "skin" sticking to the raw skin
REDMOON Saddle leather raw leather (not processed such as tanning, peeled off from cow) are all using North American production.
In addition, there is insistence on the purchase time, and in order to maintain the quality, we mainly use the raw rind which we purchased around autumn.
It is costly because it is purchased at a fixed time in a good condition and stored in a refrigerator, but it is necessary for maintaining quality.
After the raw rind is stored, before the tanning, ingredients such as hair and protein on the surface are removed.
"Peel" which you peeled off from an animal can not be used as it will rot away as it is.
Following the process, I will tame to "leather" that people can use. It is a technology to prevent spoilage by leaving collagen fibers except fat and protein which are the main components of the rawhide of animals.
Origin of tanashi is old, already primitive people were practicing the initial tanning that it immerses the skin in the internal organs of captured animals, the fur of the animals they wear is the only rare material "leather" following the present age It is the first step in history.
They wrapped my body with leather and used it as a bag to put tools.
As a result of the discovery of tannin, people experienced various ways, such as smoking more smoke, soaking in plant tannins, and went through the way that was effective.
Overspeed stroke which can be said to be over tan
"Skin" is tanned in a small pool called tannin tank, tannin agent concentration and ph adjusted layer.
This tannin agent is a very expensive medicine, it costs just it, but here, when I go to the next layer by putting my skin on the tannin layer, I am discarding all the tannins.
Why discard expensive tannins? It cleanses the skin before tanning and removes a certain amount of protein, but it will somewhat remain on the leather.
Components such as residual protein are discarded because they are transferred to chemicals in the tannin layer at the stage of being tanned.
This remaining ingredients, etc. will rot when you leave it.
Therefore, repeated use of the remaining tannin ingredients, when leather, has a peculiar smell, putrid smell.
Occasionally there is a misunderstanding that the smell of cheap leather is the original smell of leather, but that is a putrid smell.
In addition, it is not only putting on the tannin layer, but gradually tanned through several tannin layers from the thin layer of tannin agent to the thick layer.
By following this process, the REDMOON saddle leather becomes a material that is superior to ordinary leather nume.
This is derived from the tanner tanning the REDMOON saddle leather originally carrying out the multi-fat tanning.
This process takes about 40 days. In the meantime, "leather" gradually becomes "leather".
Regular leather Nume does not take the process so far. Inexpensive Nume leather, there are even places to use tanning agents repeatedly.
Sticking to the last
Why is it natural dry?
It takes a lot of time and space to dry naturally, which is costly.
However, if it is forcibly dried, the leather may crack or the quality may decline, so it takes time to dry naturally.
For dried leather, oil is sprayed using animal oil.
This oil is also adhering, the animal oil being used is the best for REDMOON saddle leather tanned with tannin.
This process is also done twice, not once, and it takes time and effort.
The finished leather is very thick.
Its thickness is around 4.5 mm.
Why use thick leather?
It is due to the quality of the finished leather.
In this way, REDMOON saddle leather is made based on the process which can also be called over quality as Nume leather.
For that reason, the strength is also strong, it will become a saddle leather that changes beautifully over time when used.
REDMOON Trading Post
It is the 2nd floor of Daikanyama post office.
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